So, I’ve searched for this display’s files for two weeks. Those are cheap (3$ on eBay), but unlike all those SSD1332 displays with green ribbon of uniform width (and available drivers and breakouts). I’m not even sure if this display is SSD1332 based, and I’m not sure I care after many frustrating unsuccessful attempts to get it working. It’s cheap, however, but you do get a bare panel with a controller.
Apparently, these displays are produced by RiTDisplay. They weren’t that helpful with datasheets though and it’s not even listed on their page. Also, apparently, it’s discontinued now. The display has 27 pins, with SPI and 8-bit interface both available. I found it listed as RGS10096064FR004 on one site but the datasheet seemed to be behind the paywall.
Recently, I found the datasheet (more or less accessible), pinout information (found it before somewhere too, but it was hard) AND SAMPLE CODE! I haven’t yet checked it, but since it was hard to find, I’m sharing it with others.
Yandex Disk link
Also, I’m sharing the simple board I’ve made in Eagle. It’s in no way complete – no annotations, some jumpers might be missing for your purpose and you’ll have to check the pinout for your driving mode, but the FPC pitch is right and all the pins you’d need are broken out on headers. I also plan to transfer it to KiCad quite soon, so expect it to be available as well.
I’m back to writing posts! And expect a long post about my Raspberry Pi wearable PC soon =)
Here I present you a tiny I2C RTC powered by DS1307.
- 5V power
- Possibility to connect 3V battery to save clock value while power is off
- Small enough – 3,5×2,5cm
- All parts are easy to find
Here’s the PCB image I made using EagleCAD. It uses:
- CR2032 holder – can be easily salvaged from an old dead motherboard
- 32,768KHz quartz resonator – same, usually found on old motherboards
- 3x 10K SMD resistors – could either be bought or salvaged like two previous parts
- DS1307Z in SO-8 packaging
This PCB indeed is tiny. The biggest part of it seems to be the battery holder, and I chose this type of holder/battery combination because both of them are easy to find. Also, you can hook up your own battery – there’s a pin for this on the pin header, thus, big holder is not necessary if you’re not using it =) I made this PCB just because I couldn’t find anything like this on the Net. Now it’s your, too, so you just need to print image below on a sheet of A4 paper using 600 dpi and you’ll have it 1:1. Hint: use GIMP for printing images with certain DPI. Should there be questions, I’ll post a guide for doing this =)
Hope this helps you in your numerous electronics projects.
Just FYI again – it’s 5V. Yes, it will burn the Raspberry Pi unless you use a logic level voltage converter suitable for I2C communications. Later I’ll probably tell you about making one 😉
I’d really like to provide Eagle files, but the truth is – I lost them somewhere. I might have a backup somewhere, though =( As soon as I find it, I’ll put all the files here.